Foreword: Cuba was mind blowing to me. The country and its people had an deep impact on me. Unlike most of my trips, I decided to explore Cuba with a very good friend of mine – Severin, whom I know since my early childhood. During the three and a half weeks that we travelled around we mostly stayed with families (casa particulares), which helped a lot to get closer look to the country and its people then on my usual trips, where I normally stay in hostels.
I discoverd a country that was vastly different from all the other places that I have been before - of course some western influences here and there, even Coca Cola from time to time.
Havana, which now ranks as one of my favourit cities, was jaw dropping for me. Where other city centers start looking more and more similar these days, with the same fashion stores and fast food restaurants across town, Havana is a virtual “Global Brand free” Zone.The capital of Cuba is one giant picture opportunity, especially the old part. I walked around and all the buildings, the faces of the people, the cars, everything was eye popping different. I hope you enjoy this little road-report from my time in Cuba - in 2007.
22. April Flight to Havana, Malecon at night
After my arrival in Cuba and unloading my stuff at our first accommodation we strayed around the center of Old Havana and went to “El Capitolio La Habana”, which looks a lot like the United States Capitol. Rumor has it that the guy in charge then wanted to impress his friends in Washington. I wonder why Fidel Castro kept it white after he came to power. I think red would have been a fitting color just as well!
To celebrate the first day in Havana, we walked down the Prado to the Malecon (sea side of Havana) and finally had our first pojo, Mojito and a cigar, three things which would accompany us everywhere in Cuba!
23. April La Habana Vieja (Old Havana), Baseball Game
I think I could spend weeks in La Habana Vieja just taking pictures of every single building there. They all sure have a story to tell. Of course there are hot spots and must sees for tourists like the Cathedral de San Cristóbal de La Havana, the Castillo de la Real Fuerza or the Camera Obscura at the corner
of "Plaza Vieja" but it’s the little streets left and right of those landmarks that make Old Havana such a gem. Cuban music everywhere, hundreds of stray cats and dogs, streets filled with cars. It makes you feel like you are in a movie from the 50ties or early 60ties.
The night was reserved for Cubans favorite Sport: Pelota (Baseball). It was the play-off season of 2007 and one of the last games. We arrived at the crowded stadium and tried to buy a ticket, but the vendors kept sending us to different offices until we got to one where we were told that the game was sold out.
A little depressed we decided to hang around at one of the entrances. Out of the sudden we where waved through and where not even charged for the ticket. Unfortunately the security guard confiscated the rum we wanted to take to the game, but he only got it after one final big sip!
The game was amazing and the stadium full with fans of the two competing teams, Havana Industriales and Santiago de Cuba. The game lasted for about 3 hours, in the beginning the Industriales Team from Havana was the leading team, but in the second half the team of Santiago made a turn around and scored big time, taking the victory.
24. April, Havana, Playas del Este, Santa Maria del Mar
The public bus system in Cuba is very unique . Everyone cues up right before the bus arrives. If the bus is full, you are denied boarding. Then everyone has to remember their position in the cue and all the people walk away only to gather again when the next bus arrives. Our goal was to go to Santa Maria del Mar and stay on the beach for next two days. Our friendly host in Havana had recommended us to an accommodation there and even made a reservation for us. Unfortunately it was an illegal one and only afterwards we found out that it was even more expensive than the official ones. The explanation from the owner was quiet unique but understandable: It’s a great risk to rent illegally so they have to charge more… But nonetheless the old cigarette smoking landlady was very nice and the Caribbean white sand beach in Santa Maria del Mar was worth the 2,5 hours non air-conditioned bus ride.
25. April, Havana – Santiago de Cuba
After our return from Playas del Este we did some more sightseeing in Havana and even managed to get our first pack of cigars at the cigar factory next to the Capitolio.
At night we took a train to Santiago de Cuba. I have to admit, the train ride was one of its kind. The wagons where actually from Eastern-Germany and really old. The same kind used to be in service in Austria on short distances, but we were looking at a 13 hour over-night train ride! Luckily we got a coach but the downside turned out to be the toilet that was next to our coach. Well, actually there was a sign that gave a hint that there once used to be a toilet, but it was not more than just a whole in the floor, missing all the usual equipment such as sink and toilet paper that can be found on even an old train in Europe. The smell was unbearable and it was a real pleasure when someone lit up a cigarette in our cabin. Severin actually smoked a few cigarettes on the train just to get bit of smell-relief. We later found out that there are two kind of trains – the crappy one we got and a “special one”- We even got 20 Cucs back when we arrived in Santiago as we had paid for the special one. I wonder how the “special one” would have looked like…
26. April, Santiago de Cuba – Celebration of Baseball Championship
One thing we learned the hard way in Cuba was to always ask for a price before doing business with the locals, such as taxi drivers, landlords etc. . A short distance from the train station to our accommodation turned out to be a pricy one as we were charged 12 Cucs. The bicitaxy driver even asked for more in the beginning but Severin managed to haggle him down. Well, lesson learned!
The center of Santiago is really nice and we enjoyed another Mojito and a cigar at a restaurant right next to the church. A Cuban dressed up like a Super-Pimp and a fancy cane posed for tourists to take pictures.
As Santiago also won the follow up game to the one we saw in Havana there was a big celebration in town. Huge crowds where roaming the streets, lots of grilled pigs where offered on the street and you could buy beer in plastic cups for just a few national pesos. The players were greeted and cheered by the crowd and everybody danced to music. Not bad for a nation considers "Third World". |