Backpacking around the World – Page 9 – Travel writting and photography from backpacking on seven continents by Johannes auer

Havana to Santiago de Cuba by train

After our return from Playas del Este we did some more sightseeing in Havana and even managed to get our first pack of cigars at the cigar factory next to the Capitolio.

At night we took a train to Santiago de Cuba. I have to admit, the train ride was one of its kind. The wagons where actually from Eastern-Germany and really old. The same kind used to be in service in Austria on short distances, but we were looking at a 13 hour over-night train ride! Luckily we got a coach but the downside turned out to be the toilet that was next to our coach. Well, actually there was a sign that gave a hint that there once used to be a toilet, but it was not more than just a whole in the floor, missing all the usual equipment such as sink and toilet paper that can be found on even an old train in Europe. The smell was unbearable and it was a real pleasure when someone lit up a cigarette in our cabin. Severin actually smoked a few cigarettes on the train just to get bit of smell-relief. We later found out that there are two kind of trains – the crappy one we got and a “special one”- We even got 20 Cucs back when we arrived in Santiago as we had paid for the special one. I wonder how the “special one” would have looked like…

Havana, Playas del Este, Santa Maria del Mar

The public bus system in Cuba is very unique . Everyone cues up right before the bus arrives. If the bus is full, you are denied boarding. Then everyone has to remember their position in the cue and all the people walk away only to gather again when the next bus arrives. Our goal was to go to Santa Maria del Mar and stay on the beach for next two days. Our friendly host in Havana had recommended us to an accommodation there and even made a reservation for us. Unfortunately it was an illegal one and only afterwards we found out that it was even more expensive than the official ones. The explanation from the owner was quiet unique but understandable: It’s a great risk to rent illegally so they have to charge more… But nonetheless the old cigarette smoking landlady was very nice and the Caribbean white sand beach in Santa Maria del Mar was worth the 2,5 hours non air-conditioned bus ride.

La Habana Vieja (Old Havana), Baseball Game

I think I could spend weeks in La Habana Vieja just taking pictures of every single building there. They all sure have a story to tell. Of course there are hot spots and must sees for tourists like the Cathedral de San Cristóbal de La Havana, the Castillo de la Real Fuerza or the Camera Obscura at the corner
of “Plaza Vieja” but it’s the little streets left and right of those landmarks that make Old Havana such a gem. Cuban music everywhere, hundreds of stray cats and dogs, streets filled with cars. It makes you feel like you are in a movie from the 50ties or early 60ties.

The night was reserved for Cubans favorite Sport: Pelota (Baseball). It was the play-off season of 2007 and one of the last games. We arrived at the crowded stadium and tried to buy a ticket, but the vendors kept sending us to different offices until we got to one where we were told that the game was sold out.

A little depressed we decided to hang around at one of the entrances. Out of the sudden we where waved through and where not even charged for the ticket. Unfortunately the security guard confiscated the rum we wanted to take to the game, but he only got it after one final big sip!

The game was amazing and the stadium full with fans of the two competing teams, Havana Industriales and Santiago de Cuba. The game lasted for about 3 hours, in the beginning the Industriales Team from Havana was the leading team, but in the second half the team of Santiago made a turn around and scored big time, taking the victory.

Cuba, 2007

Foreword: Cuba was mind blowing to me. The country and its people had an deep impact on me. Unlike most of my trips, I decided to explore Cuba with a very good friend of mine – Severin, whom I know since my early childhood. During the three and a half weeks that we travelled around we mostly stayed with families (casa particulares), which helped a lot to get closer look to the country and its people then on my usual trips, where I normally stay in hostels.

I discoverd a country that was vastly different from all the other places that I have been before – of course some western influences here and there, even Coca Cola from time to time.

Havana, which now ranks as one of my favourit cities, was jaw dropping for me. Where other city centers start looking more and more similar these days, with the same fashion stores and fast food restaurants across town, Havana is a virtual “Global Brand free” Zone.The capital of Cuba is one giant picture opportunity, especially the old part. I walked around and all the buildings, the faces of the people, the cars, everything was eye popping different. I hope you enjoy this little road-report from my time in Cuba – in 2007.

22. April Flight to Havana, Malecon at night
After my arrival in Cuba and unloading my stuff at our first accommodation we strayed around the center of Old Havana and went to “El Capitolio La Habana”, which looks a lot like the United States Capitol. Rumor has it that the guy in charge then wanted to impress his friends in Washington. I wonder why Fidel Castro kept it white after he came to power. I think red would have been a fitting color just as well!

To celebrate the first day in Havana, we walked down the Prado to the Malecon (sea side of Havana) and finally had our first pojo, Mojito and a cigar, three things which would accompany us everywhere in Cuba!

Rome, Italy


The city of Rome is located in the central-western portion of the Italian Peninsula, on the Tiber river within the Lazio region of Italy. It has been one of history’s greatest, most powerful and important cities, being the home of the emperor during the Roman Empire and the modern seat of the Italian government. Rome also has a significant place in Christianity and is the present day home of the Roman Catholic Church and the Pope, and the site of the Vatican City, an independent city-state run by the Catholic Church. Due to this centrality on many levels, the city has been nicknamed “Caput Mundi” (Latin for “Capital of the World”) and “The Eternal City”.
Rome’s history spans over two and a half thousand years. It was the centre of the Roman Republic and of the Roman Empire, which was a major political and cultural influence in the lands bordering the Mediterranean Sea for over four hundred years from the 1st Century BC until the 4th Century AD. During the Middle-Ages, Rome was home to popes such as Alexander VI and Leo X, who transformed the city into one of the major centres of the Italian Renaissance, along with Florence. The current-day version of St Peter’s Basilica was built and the Sistine Chapel’s ceiling was painted by artist Michelangelo. Famous artists and architects, such as Bramante, Leonardo da Vinci, Bernini and Raphael resided for some time in Rome, contributing to its Renaissance and Baroque architecture. As a modern city, it has been capital of the unified Italy since 1870, and grew mainly in two periods before and after World War II. Rome has had an immense historic influence to the world and modern society over the ages, particularly during ancient times, mainly in subjects such as architecture, art, culture, politics, literature, law, philosophy and religion.
The city of Rome is located in the central-western portion of the Italian Peninsula, on the Tiber river within the Lazio region of Italy. It has been one of history’s greatest, most powerful and important cities, being the home of the emperor during the Roman Empire and the modern seat of the Italian government. Rome also has a significant place in Christianity and is the present day home of the Roman Catholic Church and the Pope, and the site of the Vatican City, an independent city-state run by the Catholic Church. Due to this centrality on many levels, the city has been nicknamed “Caput Mundi” (Latin for “Capital of the World”) and “The Eternal City”.Rome’s history spans over two and a half thousand years.

It was the centre of the Roman Republic and of the Roman Empire, which was a major political and cultural influence in the lands bordering the Mediterranean Sea for over four hundred years from the 1st Century BC until the 4th Century AD. During the Middle-Ages, Rome was home to popes such as Alexander VI and Leo X, who transformed the city into one of the major centres of the Italian Renaissance, along with Florence. The current-day version of St Peter’s Basilica was built and the Sistine Chapel’s ceiling was painted by artist Michelangelo. Famous artists and architects, such as Bramante, Leonardo da Vinci, Bernini and Raphael resided for some time in Rome, contributing to its Renaissance and Baroque architecture. As a modern city, it has been capital of the unified Italy since 1870, and grew mainly in two periods before and after World War II. Rome has had an immense historic influence to the world and modern society over the ages, particularly during ancient times, mainly in subjects such as architecture, art, culture, politics, literature, law, philosophy and religion.

Back in Auckland, Rangitoto Island

23rd of October: Flight from Christchurch to Auckland

It took me more then three week s to get from Auckland to Christchurch by bus, but its just a 2,5 hour flight to get back. Fortunately it was a very sunny day and I got to see some of the parts that I could not visit due to my limited time – like KAIKOURA’ and its famous whales. Maybe the next time when I visit New Zealand… After checking into the hostel in Auckland I paid the Zoo a little visit and finally got to see some of the infamous Kiwi birds – behind a thick window but at least alive.

24th of October:
My final “full” day in New Zealand, back in Auckland where it all begin more then four weeks ago. I decided to take a boat to Rangitoto Island and walk around the world’s largest Pohutukawa forest,

Rangitoto emerged from the sea around 600 years ago in a series of fiery volcanic explosions. It is the most recent and the largest of the approximately 48 volcanoes of the Auckland volcanic field. I even brought a flash lamp and walked through the lave tunnel… Not so long ago the island was a wasteland and full of animals not native to New Zealand, but after they removed all the “forreigners” the island was reclaimed by native Flora and Fauna.

Good bye New Zealand, I hope to see you again some day! Keep up the good spirit, and try to work on the national cuisine!

Christchurch

We had to get up pretty early in the morning to visit one last sight before leaving Dunedin. The steepest road of the world – Baldwin street . Our bus driver made us hike up that steep hill by promising that on top of it would be a nice cafeteria offering hot chocolate. Of course when we reached the peak, there was nothing but some old houses and an odd looking camper van.

On the way to Christchurch we stopped for a walk at the Moeraki boulders. There are huge boulders lying along a stretch of Koekohe Beach, some of these boulders are broken and you can sit in them like in a chair, or jump from one to another. Very stupid idea when the mist has made them slippery and you try to jump from one boulder to the other – like I did…

The drive from Canterbury Plains to Christchurch also meant the last time I would travel with a most of the group that had stayed on the bus with me for almost three weeks. Of course we celebrated that one last evening at the pub in Christchurch, had a few dinks and danced till early in the morning.

21st of Oktober,
A sunny and warm day is best spent outside in the nature, so I took a bus to the Christchurch Gondola to get a better view of the area. Up at the restaurant I met a German girl and we decided to hike down the mountain together to get some nice views of the Canterbury Plains and take a bus back from Lyttelton Harbour rather then just taking the cable way down again.

22nd of October: Botanical Gardens and Art center
A nice way to explore the inner city is the tram, which follows a 2.5 kilometer loop around central Christchurch. It’s a nice way to hop on and off at the major sights like the Botanical Gardends – with its rather disturbing little pond. The pond has statue of a blindfolded woman in the water like she is looking for something. Imagine a foggy day in fall when you walk around the park and it’s about to get dark!